If you live where tomatoes are a special summer treat, like I do, there are probably a few classic dishes you make at least once a season.
The perfect tomato sandwich, with mayo and s+p.
A proper BLT.
A Caprese salad that’s finally not gross.
Panzanella (the Italian salad made with stale or otherwise dried bread)
Spaghetti al Pomodoro Crudo (Pasta in a raw tomato sauce)
The world probably doesn’t need any more recipes for these dishes, and yet can we resist them? Perhaps someone, somewhere, will come along with a tweak to the technique or ingredients that will get us closer to tomato nirvana.
Will this version of spaghetti with raw tomato sauce be that recipe for you? Perhaps.
I don’t remember when I first learned about tossing hot pasta with raw tomatoes so they break down slightly and form a chunky “sauce.”
But I will say, I loved it.
It brought together the ease of boiling pasta and making a salad without it being a pasta salad.
For the most part, I’ve followed the classic “recipe,” using plenty of olive oil and a little raw garlic.
I like it, but I wanted to try something new.
There are two beloved ingredients that are undersung with tomatoes, imho. One is brown butter — its hazelnutty flavor against the sweet tang of tomatoes is just magic. The other is lemon, which makes tomatoes taste a bit juicier.
What if we put them all together?
Now, I know the beauty of this dish is that you typically don’t cook the sauce, and here, well, I’m asking you to stand at the stove for a few minutes. But I figured, you’re already cooking the pasta. What’s the harm in toasting a little butter alongside?
The benefit of toasting the butter means you can cook the garlic, too, which is good news for those of us who now have weird and wild dreams when we eat too much raw garlic. (What’s THAT about?)
What are some of your nonnegotiable, must-make-them summer dishes?
Spaghetti with Raw Tomato Sauce + Lemony Browned Butter
Serves 4
Fine sea salt
1 garlic clove
1 /12 pounds tomatoes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
One small handful fresh basil leaves
12 ounces long pasta, such spaghetti or linguine
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons
1/8 teaspoon sugar (optional)
Freshly ground black pepper
Boil the pasta water and prep the vegetables
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt the water well.
Smash the garlic clove and peel it.
Remove the core from the tomatoes and cut them into ½ inch pieces. (If you’re using any cherry tomatoes, cut them in half.) Transfer them to a bowl and the olive oil and ½ teaspoon salt.
Tear half the basil leaves and add them to the tomatoes.
Cook the pasta
Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente, about 12 minutes or see the box for guidance. (Remember that the pasta will go into a cool sauce, so it will not continue cooking the way it would in a hot sauce.)
Meanwhile, brown the butter, then finish the dish
Have your lemon juice near the stove.
In a small pot, melt the butter over medium heat and add the garlic clove. Cook, swirling the pan occasionally. Watch as the butter foams up and the garlic starts to crackle. After 2 to 3 minutes, you’ll see little speckles of milk solids that fall to the bottom of the golden fat and start to brown.
When the milk solids become the color of chestnuts, immediately swirl in the lemon juice and turn off the heat.
Remove the garlic clove and scrape the lemony browned butter over the tomatoes, being sure to get as many of the milk solids as possible.
Using tongs, transfer the pasta from the water to the tomatoes and toss. You should have plenty of liquid in the bowl, but if, for some reason, the pasta seems dry, add a little of the pasta water to the bowl to help loosen up the sauce. Taste and season with more salt, if necessary, and a few grinds of black pepper. If your tomatoes seem a little lackluster, add the sugar, toss and taste again.
Add the rest of the basil, and serve.
The short version
Boil the water for the pasta.
Smash the garlic. Cut the tomatoes into ½-inch pieces and transfer to a large bowl. Add the olive oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and half the basil, torn.
Brown the butter with the garlic clove in it. As soon as it’s browned, add the lemon juice. Scrape over the tomatoes.
Cook the pasta until al dente, then use tongs to transfer to the tomatoes. Toss, adding any pasta water, if necessary. Season with more salt, some pepper, and add the rest of the basil, and serve.
Fun for kids
Tear the basil.
Squeeze the lemon juice.
Chop the tomatoes (if they’re good with knives).
Toss the pasta with the sauce.
Swaps
Instead of spaghetti, use another pasta
Use minced raw garlic, if that’s your jam.
Instead of basil, try mint or dill.
Bonus points
Grate in some Parmesan cheese.
Add some sliced green olives.
Add a can or two of tuna if you want to up the protein quotient.
Mash the tomatoes with a potato masher if you prefer a less chunky situation.
I think this looks like a very tasty way to celebrate tomatoes. I just wanted to check that the amount of tomatoes is one and a half pounds. The placement of the / makes it look like one twelfth of a pound. Thanks
I made this tonight with juicy heirlooms and tossed it with parm and some leftover grilled chicken, and it was a big hit! Thanks Kristin.