Potatoes, caramelized onions, and cheese, oh my
Angie Mar's Tartiflette
Before baking my first tartiflette in 2019. Wish I had the ‘after’ photo!
Instead of cooking stuffing or dressing on Thanksgiving, I usually opt for an over-the-top potato dish. Last year, I made rösti. I’ve done mashed potatoes and gratins, too, of course. But a favorite so far has been tartiflette.
I cooked my first tartiflette in 2019, after seeing a recipe from chef Angie Mar in Food & Wine magazine. Since then, I’ve eaten it (twice!) in the Savoie, its home region in the foothills of the Alps in France — a place where a dish of potatoes smothered in melted raw-milk cheese makes good sense.
My daughter requested tartiflette again this year, and when I went seeking the recipe, I found it had been pulled down from the Food & Wine site and instead forwards to a recipe from Anthony Bourdain. I have no doubt his recipe is a good one (it includes bacon after all), but I wanted to cook my tried and true version.
Thank goodness for the Wayback Machine.
For posterity, I’m sharing Angie Mar’s Tartiflette recipe with you here, in case you need a last-minute side dish for tomorrow (or really any time this season).
I’m off to cook this now, but I’ll be honest: I might take a cue from Anthony Bourdain and add bacon. ;)
Tartiflette
By Angie Mar
From Food & Wine, November 2019
Active: 45 mins; Total: 2 hrs 5 mins
Serves 8
D’Affinois cheese is incredibly creamy yet mild, buttery, and sweet, similar to a blend of Tomme and triple-crème Brie. Here, it’s melted over tender, soft potatoes and jammy caramelized onions; a glug of dry white wine helps to cut the richness and highlight the sweet flavor of the Fromager d’Affinois.
4 medium russet potatoes (about 2 1/4 pounds), peeled
2 tablespoons plus 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
1/2 cup rendered beef fat or unsalted butter
2 medium-size yellow onions, thinly sliced (about 5 cups)
1 1/2 teaspoons granulated sugar
2/3 cup dry white wine, divided
1 1/2 teaspoons thinly sliced fresh sage
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, divided
1/4 cup crème fraîche
1 (1-pound) Fromager d’Affinois round, at room temperature, halved crosswise, rind left on
How to Make It
Step 1
Place potatoes in a large pot, and add water to cover. Add 2 teaspoons salt, and bring to a boil over high. Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until potatoes are fork-tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and let potatoes cool 30 minutes. Cut potatoes crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices, and set aside.
Step 2
Meanwhile, preheat oven to 400°F. Heat a large skillet over medium-high. Add rendered beef fat, and heat until shimmering, about 2 minutes. Add onions and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions begin to brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in sugar, and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add 1/3 cup wine. Cook, stirring and scraping bottom of skillet to loosen any browned bits, until wine has almost completely reduced and onions are golden and soft, about 6 minutes. Add remaining 1/3 cup wine, and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are rich brown and jammy, 4 to 6 minutes. Stir in sage.
Step 3
Arrange half of potato slices in an even layer in a 1 1/2-quart oval soufflé dish or 10- x 7- x 1 1/2-inch baking dish. Sprinkle with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Top with half of the onion mixture (about 1/3 cup). Layer with remaining potatoes, remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Top with remaining onion mixture, and drizzle with any remaining drippings in skillet. Dot casserole with spoonfuls of crème fraîche, and arrange Fromager d’Affinois cheese halves (with rind) on top. Place soufflé dish on a rimmed baking sheet, and bake in preheated oven until bubbly and lightly browned, 20 to 30 minutes. Serve immediately.
Make Ahead
Caramelized onions can be prepared up to 1 week ahead and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.