a back-pocket recipe when you have lots of greens
Herby Green Egg Pancakes from Ever-Green Vietnamese
You might already know this, but I have a podcast. Yep, I co-host a podcast about cookbook writing called Everything Cookbooks with three incredible authors, Molly Stevens, Andrea Nguyen, and Kate Leahy.
Last week, Andrea released her seventh (!) cookbook, Ever-Green Vietnamese, about vegetable-forward cooking. (She also has a thought-provoking Substack called Pass the Fish Sauce that you should read if you love Asian food.)
I've talked with Andrea throughout her creation process, from when she started flirting with the idea to the fun (and challenge) of developing recipes to the editing. And now, I'm watching Andrea promote her socks off and cheering her on.
While I've had a PDF copy of the book for months, nothing compares to leaning back on the couch while holding the 3D book in my hands and choosing what I want to make for dinner.
And with this book, there is SO MUCH I want to make. I've got my eyes on the Shaking Salmon, Chicken-Vegetable Pho, Silky Asparagus-Shiitake Soup, Five-Spice Mushroom-Walnut Pâté, and Steamed Banh Mi Lettuce Wraps.
There are also a zillion brilliant tips, techniques, and recipes for vegetable and lower-meat cooking.
The recipe I zeroed in on that I knew I needed to share with you is this one for Herby Green Egg Pancakes. In the book, it lives on a single page, and it's not photographed, so it's one you might breeze right by it. (Tara, the wonderful writer at Kitchen Bookshelf and a Mission: Dinner reader, aptly calls these "silent assassin recipes".)
Making the pancakes is a great way to use up a glut of greens, whether you have them cooked already or not. They also call for a full cup of herbs. (Perfect for when you need to give your chive plant a haircut.)
Honestly, the pancakes are not beautiful, and they're hard to style for a photo. But, after you taste them, you won't care. The flavor magic comes from the combination of fish sauce and a healthy dose of black pepper. Deeply savory with a bit of heat, they're hard to stop eating. But that's ok because they're full of greens!
Herby Green Egg Pancakes by Andrea Nguyen from Ever-Green Vietnamese
Time: 30 mins
Makes 4 Servings (especially when served with rice or in a sandwich)
This recipe is more-or-less as written by Andrea, but I did add in her method for steam-sauteed greens. In the book, it lives on another page.
Andrea writes, “Cornstarch binds the vegetables and facilitates delicately crisp, frilly edges. Use one herb to emphasize a single flavor or mix two or three herbs to vary the flavor notes. Enjoy the pancakes with rice, in a sandwich, or with a salad.”
12 ounces greens, such as kale, chard, collards, or tender mustard greens (or 2 cups lightly packed cooked greens)
Fine sea salt and baking soda (if you’re cooking the greens for this recipe)
1 cup packed chopped raw herbs, such as dill, cilantro, garlic chives, Vietnamese shiso, and wild pepper leaves (my own additions: onion chives or tarragon are good in the mix, too)
1 tablespoon fish sauce, regular or vegan (Andrea’s book includes a recipe for a vegan version) or soy sauce
1 teaspoon recently ground black pepper
3 tablespoons cornstarch
6 large eggs
4 to 5 tablespoons neutral oil (such as canola or peanut)
Viet Chile Sauce (she has a recipe in the book), chile-garlic sauce (see page 37), or sriracha, for dipping
Prep and steam-sauté the greens
Remove any tough stems from the greens. Chop the greens and any tender stems into small pieces.
Put ⅛ inch water in the bottom of a deep skillet or Dutch oven and add the prepped greens, 2 big pinches of sea salt, and 2 pinches of baking soda. (The baking soda helps the greens retain their color.)
Toss the greens a bit to distribute. Cover and cook over medium heat, checking and stirring, for 5 to 10 minutes, until tender, depending on the greens; if needed, splash in more water. Remove from the heat and let cool.
Make the veggie-egg mixture
If there is a lot of cooking water in the greens, pour it off (leave some moisture for tenderness). Coarsely chop the greens if any of the pieces seem big. Put them in a medium bowl with the herbs, then season with the fish sauce and black pepper. Taste for a mild savoriness, working in pinches of salt as needed. Add the cornstarch and mix with a fork (the starch will disappear as it becomes absorbed). Add the eggs (lightly beat them with the fork) and mix to coat well.
Pan-fry the pancakes and serve
Set a 12-inch nonstick or carbon-steel skillet over medium heat, then add about 2 tablespoons neutral oil to lightly coat the bottom. When the oil ripples, use a ¼ cup measuring cup (or an ice-cream scoop) to deposit the egg mixture for three or four pancakes, using the bottom of your scooper to spread out the mixture to create 3- to 4-inch-wide pancakes. Egg should flow down to create frilly edges. (Drizzle additional eggs on top to force them, if you like.)
Pan-fry, flipping the pancakes after 2 minutes, or when the edges look golden brown and crisp. Cook the other side for about 1 minute, then transfer to a rack or platter to cool. Repeat, adding oil and adjusting the heat as needed to make about twelve pancakes total (expect the last ones to be extra eggy and amoeba-shaped). When the last ones are done, briefly re-fry the first batch to reheat, if you like. Serve with chile sauce for dipping.
Lifespan: Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container for up to 3 days; return them to room temperature and briefly re-fry over medium heat.
Fun for kids
Remove tough stems from the greens.
Mix together the pancake mixture.
Flip the pancakes.
Bonus points
Make a banh mi! Andrea’s book has a beautiful spread called Banh Mi Blueprint showing you how to assemble one of these Vietnamese sandwiches. In short, spread a roll with mayo or avocado, then season with Maggi Seasoning or salt. Add your eggy pancakes, top with some Vietnamese-style pickled carrots and/or radishes, cucumber, and bright herbs, like cilantro, mint, or basil. Add some fresh chiles, too, if you like.
Make bún noodle salad! Andrea has a blueprint with lots of ideas for these too. Create bowls of thin, cold, cooked rice noodles (bún or mai fun). Top with some of the torn egg pancakes, tender lettuces, and fresh herbs, such as cilantro and mint. Add other crisp veggies if you like and some toasted peanuts or cashews or fried shallots, if you like. Serve with nuoc cham dipping sauce.
A sleeper recipe in the book! Thanks for picking up on it. Yours look (and I bet) taste perfecto!